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                     ITALY, ITALIAN-STYLE!

                    Notes for the Traveler to Italy

                         by Suzanne T. Pidduck

               Copyright  1995 by Suzanne T. Pidduck
                              All rights reserved

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This is an ASCII version of the 1995 printed edition of her booklet that Suzanne provides
all of her clients.  The information is an accumulation of her personal notes made during her
many trips (she goes at least once each year) during which she stays in various properties and
visits the local area.  She has also included a few pointers suggested her many satisfied rental clients.

This booklet is available for $7.50 in a handy pocket-size format by contacting her directly:

          RENTALS IN ITALY (& Elsewhere!)
                   Suzanne T. Pidduck
                    1742 Calle Corva
                Camarillo, CA 93010

                  [phone]
                  [phone]
             FAX [phone]
                            CIS 76413,713

*******************************************************************************************************
                TABLE OF CONTENTS

               INTRODUCTION. . .iii

               I.  BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME1

               II.  ARRIVING AND DRIVING IN ITALY3

               III.  HELPFUL HINTS 14

               IV.  ON THE CITY OF FLORENCE31

               V.  EXCURSIONS AROUND TUSCANY35

               VI.  EXCURSIONS AROUND UMBRIA44

               VII.  EXCURSIONS AROUND THE VENETO47

               VIII.  THE CINQUE TERRE50

               IX.  SICILY . . . 53

               X.  ROME NOTES. . 57

               APPENDIX A:  STORIES FROM FIRST-TIME RENTERS 58

               APPENDIX B:  EASY MENUS TO PREPARE64

               APPENDIX C:  A SAMPLE SHOPPING LIST67

               APPENDIX D:  NOTES ON ITALIAN REAL ESTATE68

               APPENDIX E:   PUBLIC TELEPHONE71

               APPENDIX F:   RAIL MAP OF ITALY72

               INTRODUCTION

                    Over the years I have been very fortunate to make
many trips to Italy.  I first visited as a student, then as a
single traveler, later as a mother with three young children,
and now  I go as an Italian villa rental agent.  On each of my
trips I have discovered some new facet of Italian life that I
had not previously known.  As I have made new discoveries,
I have collected quite a list of notes that have helped me to
organize future trips and to get the most enjoyment out of
the stimulating pleasure of travel in a foreign country.  This
booklet contains some of the gems from my collection.  I
hope they may be of help to you on your visit to Italy!  If you
discover something that I have overlooked, please drop me
a line so that I can add to my collection of words of wisdom.
   Very best regards and buon viaggio!



                         Suzanne T. Pidduck
                          Rentals in Italy
                          1742 Calle Corva
                        Camarillo, CA 93010

                            805/987-5278
                            800/726-6702
                          FAX [phone]
                           CIS 76413,713

                     I.  BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME

PACKING:  After almost thirty years of traveling to Italy, I
have finally learned how to pack!  I now bring just a small
shoulder tote and a carry-on bag on wheels.  What I can't fit
into those two small bags is left at home.  What is never left
behind, regardless of the season, is an umbrella and/or
light-weight raincoat, an all-purpose sweater, very comfortable
shoes, an itty-bitty book light, slippers (for the cold
marble floors), bug repellant, paperback books (including
an English-Italian dictionary and one good guidebook), and
one or two basic outfits to mix and match.  See also:  TO
BRING WITH YOU.

WEATHER CONSIDERATIONS:  It is impossible to predict
the weather conditions in Italy; however, it is safe to assume
that July and August will be quite warm.  Much of Europe
vacations in August, so try to avoid Italy at this time due to
the heat, crowds and the closure of many shops.  May,
June, September and October are the best months to visit.
The weather is generally mild, without the intense heat of
July and August.  A word of caution: rain is not uncommon,
so come prepared.  A light-weight raincoat and silk long
underwear are easy to pack and take up very little space.
You may never need them, then again, you may be very
happy you brought them along!

DOCUMENTS:  Always make copies of your airline tickets,
passport, credit cards, drivers license, etc., and carry them
separate (along with a list of traveler's check numbers) from
the originals.  A few years ago, my mother-in-law was
relieved of her billfold and glasses by a group of gypsies in
Florence.  Unfortunately, she did not have copies of any of
her documents, and we spent the next five days visiting the
Carabinieri office to file a report, waiting in lines at the
American Consulate and the American Express office, and
trying to get instant passport photos.  Having extra passport
photos with you can save precious vacation time.  If you are
dependent on eyeglasses, consider bringing an extra pair.
In addition, bring  your medical insurance identity card and
a claim form.  If you will be driving, obtain an International
Driving Permit, which can be obtained at any AAA office.  All
you will need are two passport photos and a U.S. driver's
license.

                II.  ARRIVING AND DRIVING IN ITALY

CAR RENTALS:  In previous editions I recommended
specific car rental companies.  However, the car rental
situation changes so often with regard to rates, credit card
Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage, and the extent
of the CDW coverage, that I hesitate to recommend one
company over another.  As of  summer 1995, Auto Europe
made a deal to eliminate most of the VAT in Italy for
customers who prepay in dollars.  Other companies are
expected to follow suit.  Call me for an update on the latest
information.
   It is increasingly difficult to decline the CDW in Italy.  For
instance, in 1995 Visa and American Express would not
provide insurance coverage for cars rented in Italy.  In addi-
tion, there is now an obligatory theft protection fee, as well
as a 10% airport pick-up charge added to all car rentals.
One way to avoid some of these extra fees is to rent your
car in another country and then drive it into Italy.  However,
you must check  with the car rental company (and the credit
card company if you plan to use your credit card to cover
the CDW) about driving the car into Italy.  In addition, find
out about any drop-off charges.  Be sure you list any
additional drivers on the rental contract.
   NOTES OF CAUTION: If you decide while you are in
Italy to extend the number of days you want to rent the car
(assuming that you prepaid in the U.S.)  as the rates you will
be  charged for the additional days could be as much as
double the daily rate you paid in the U.S.  When you rent at
a weekly rate, be sure to find out the latest time of day that
you will be allowed to return the car without penalty.  If you
pick up a car in a city or town rather than at the airport,
check the hours that the office is open where you plan to
return the car because they vary greatly from city to city.
   HELPFUL INFORMATION: On the Compuserve
network see the file -  Eurocar.txt.

FOREIGN CURRENCY EXCHANGE:  It is a good idea to
obtain $100 or so in Italian lire before you arrive in Italy.
This will cover you in case the airport banks or ATM ma-
chines are closed or malfunctioning.  The rate of exchange
in Italy is always better, so don't change more money than
you need to before arriving.

MILAN/MALPENSA ARRIVAL:  I personally prefer to fly into
Milan's Malpensa airport rather than Rome's Fiumicino.
The Malpensa airport is modern and fairly small, and it is
comparatively easy to arrange for a rental car in the Arrival
Terminal and then to quickly exit the airport.

HOTELS NEAR MALPENSA:  When I fly into Malpensa I
usually stay the first night at the JET HOTEL about fifteen
minutes from the airport in the small town of Gallarate.
After a long flight it is a relief to drive just a few minutes
down the road to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon by the
pool; followed by dinner at LA GOLETTA next door, or LA
RUOTA nearby; and then a good night's sleep.  By the next
morning, I feel alert and ready for the trip to begin.  Note:
There is a large supermarket just south of the JET HOTEL
on the road leading to the airport expressway.  It's a great
place for shopping after arriving (food and supplies) or prior
to departure (olive oil, wine, or specialty canned goods).

                             JET HOTEL
                        Via Tiro a Segno 22
                       21013 Gallarate, Italy
                      FAX:  [phone]
                      TEL:  [phone]

   The following is another hotel where I have stayed that
is close to the Malpensa airport:

                         PINETA MOTOR HOTEL
                          Via Sempione 150
                      21052 Busto Arsizio (VA)
                      FAX:  [phone]
                      TEL:  [phone]

   A pleasant alternative is to drive forty-five minutes
northwest of Malpensa to CERNOBBIO, on Lake Como.  A
moderately priced hotel with wonderful views of the lake is:

                            HOTEL ASNIGO
                            Via Noseda 2
                          22012 Cernobbio
                       FAX:  [phone]
                       TEL:  [phone]

OVERNIGHT IN PARMA:  Should you decide to drive
further before finding a hotel, I would recommend a stop in
PARMA (about two hours south of Malpensa).  It is an
elegant and sophisticated city which is often overlooked by
tourists.  Remember, parmigiano cheese and prosciutto
both originated in PARMA.

   The PARK HOTEL STENDHAL is located in a peaceful
corner of the historical center.  From the hotel it is possible
to explore the city on foot.

                        PARK HOTEL STENDHAL
                         3 Piazzetta Bodoni
                         43100 Parma, Italy
                      TEL:  [phone]

BUS/TRAIN FROM MALPENSA:  If you don't want to rent
a car, it is possible to take a bus from the airport directly
(approximately a one-hour trip) to the Milan train station and
there catch a train for further destinations.  The bus, located
directly outside the Arrival Terminal, leaves for the Central
Station in Milan at 8:50 A.M., 9:50 A.M., 10:50 A.M., 11:50
A.M., 12:50 P.M., and other times corresponding to the
arrival of inbound flights.  It is also possible to take a bus
from the same stop to the Terminal at Lampugnano, a
transportation center with metro access into and out of
Milan.  It leaves the airport at twenty minutes after the hour.

DRIVING SOUTH OR WEST:  To reach Tuscany and the
Florence area by car from Milan's Malpensa airport, take
the highway in the direction of MILANO.  Look for signs that
read Autostrada BOLOGNA A1.  Continue south on the
Autostrada A1 until you reach Florence.  If you are traveling
in the direction of VENEZIA, follow the signs for Autostrada
VENEZIA A4.

FOOD:  There are several large restaurant/bars that are
located just off or over the Autostrada A1.  These include
PAVESI and RISTORAGIP for southbound travelers, while
MOTTA and AUTOGRILL serve northbound travelers.  They
accept credit cards.  For a quick convenient stop during
your trip, they can't be beat.  Service is cafeteria style, but
the selection is broad and the food is good.  Note:  When
stopping for just a drink, you must first buy a ticket at the
Tabacchi stand near the bar.  After you present the ticket at
the bar you will be given your drink.  When exiting at most of
these autostrada restaurant stops you will be forced to walk
through a deli/gift shop first.  They sell everything from toys
to prosciutto to pastries.

ROME/FIUMICINO ARRIVAL:  Outside of the International
Arrival terminal is a shuttle bus (free of charge) that will take
you to the car rental agencies:  Avis, Hertz, Budget, Mag-
giore, and Europcar.

TRAINS INTO ROME:  To take the train from the Fiumicino
airport into ROME, simply follow the train symbol signs.  The
nonstop train leaves every 20-30 minutes and will take you
to the Roma-Ostiense station at Piazzale dei Partigiani,
where you can take a shuttle bus to the Termini station
(main station).  There are several trains a day, beginning at
7:50 A.M. and ending at 10:25 P.M.
   If you plan to take the train from the Rome Stazione
Termini elsewhere, it is said to be faster to purchase your
tickets and get seat reservations from the Tour & Travel
office downstairs from the tracks (follow the Metro signs).
At the T & T office you avoid long lines and are able to use
a credit card to pay for the tickets.

TRAIN FROM ROME AIRPORT TO FLORENCE:  If you fly
ALITALIA to the Rome Fiumicino Airport, there is now a
direct train from the airport to Florence.  For the return trip,
you check your luggage at the Florence train station and
take the train to Fiumicino.

HOTEL NEAR FIUMICINO:  The HOLIDAY INN PARCO
DEI MEDICI is probably the closest hotel to the Fiumicino
Airport.  The hotel operates a free bus service between the
airport and the hotel.  The bus makes 10 round trips
everyday.

DRIVING NORTH:  To head north from Fiumicino along the
west coast of Italy take A12 to SS1 Aurelia.  To hook up with
the Autostrada del Sole (connecting Rome to Florence and
Milan) follow the signs for A1.

OVERNIGHT STOPS OUT OF ROME:  If you are interested
in the Etruscan civilization, then by all means drive to TAR-
QUINIA, a small town on the coast that has some of the
best Etruscan tomb paintings in Italy.  Seven of the tombs
are open on a rotating basis and can be visited by the
public.  The civic museum in town is also definitely worth a
visit.  The ticket admits you to the museum, as well as the
tombs, which are located just outside of town.
   Another place to stop is the charming town of
VITERBO.  Not yet over-run by tourists, it is a very much
alive Italian city.  The San Pellegrino quarter, which is the
medieval section, is definitely worth a visit.
   ORVIETO is another wonderful place to spend the night
after an international flight.  It is less than two hours from
Rome.  More on this town can be found in Chapter VI.

PISA ARRIVAL:  Many people have found that flying into
Pisa is very convenient.  BRITISH AIR is one airline that flies
from the U.S. to Pisa, with a stop in London.  From the
airport you can take the train (a hundred yards or so from
the airport) or pick up a rental car.

FLORENCE ARRIVAL:  With the addition of a new terminal,
the Amerigo Vespucci Airport outside of Florence is now
linked to several European cities, among which are London
and Paris.  As a result it will be easier for U.S. travelers to fly
into Florence.  The new terminal contains a restaurant, bar,
bank and car rental agencies.

PAY TOLLS:  Be prepared for the Pay Tolls located along
the autostradas.  For instance, driving south from Malpensa,
there is one Pay Toll at the A1 Autostrada turnoff.  Be sure
to have a supply of lira (at least 25,000 lire) on hand before
leaving the airport in order to pay the tolls   they tend to be
expensive.  At some Pay Tolls you must pay a set amount
immediately; at others you push a button to receive a ticket,
and then you pay at the end when exiting the autostrada.

RULES OF THE ROAD:  Because driving in Italy can be
confusing to the uninitiated, I've assembled some of the
most commonly found road symbols and signs.  If you can
familiarize yourself ahead of time with the following street
"language", you will certainly enjoy your first experience on
an Italian road much more!

ITALIAN STREET SIGNS AND SYMBOLS (by color):

Yellow or brown signs   Hotels, restaurants, museums,
and other tourist points of interest.

White signs   Train stations (stazione), town center, etc.
The symbol for centro (town center) is black concentric
circles on a white background.

Blue and green signs   Road directional signs.  The green
signs are for the autostrade.  While on the autostrade, you
will see small signs in the median divider at approximately
1 km intervals giving the distance to exits ahead.  You will
very seldom see a listing of cities and corresponding
distances as would be found in the States.  The small signs
will also advise you of the distance to the next area di
servizio, or gas station.

Round blue signs with the letter "P" in the center means
parking!  These are very important signs to look for and
follow, since finding a place to park is always difficult in
Italian cities and towns.

USEFUL STREET "LANGUAGE":
Divieto di Sorpasso a Destra   Forbidden to pass on the
right.  This sign is displayed frequently along the autostradas,
and it means that slower traffic must stay to the right
to allow overtaking traffic to pass on the left.  You can
expect other cars to blink their lights and sound their horns
if you don't observe this rule.


Entrata   Entrance

Senso Unico   One-way street

Strada senza uscita   Dead-end street

Strada deformata   Street undergoing repairs

Rallentare   Slow down

Divieto di sosta   No parking

Uscita   Exit

Zona pedonale   Pedestrian zone

Passo carrabile   Don't block the driveway

Caduta massi   Watch for falling rocks

Nebbia   Fog (can be a real problem during winter)

   A humorous article by Bill Marsano in Conde Nast
TRAVELER magazine twell  llustrates the complexities (and
fun) of driving in Italy.  A couple of excerpts will serve to
portray some of the differences you will find "on the Italian
road:"

   "Take notes now.  Autostrada driving isn't swanning
around on the interstate.  Keep your brain in gear at all
times, and your reflexes, too.  Signs, for example, are few,
and road manners are important.  The left lane is for
passing only.  If you are blinked (or worse, honked) over,
you have fatto la brutta figura   cut a poor figure, the worst
sin in Italy.  So pass quickly, pull over immediately, and stay
out of the way."

   "... Italian secondary road signs are more conjectural
than navigational, in the nature of 'you can't miss it.'  You
can!  Requests for directions get the national response:
sempre diritto.  It translates as 'straight ahead' and usually
means that they haven't a clue but wouldn't dream of
disappointing you.  On average, it takes three or four
sempre dirittos to get, by mad zigzags, more or less where
you want to go."


                        III.  HELPFUL HINTS

RIGHT ATTITUDE:  The right frame of mind is very
important when living in Italy.  While there are many
similarities between the American life-style and the Italian,
there are also many differences.  Hopefully, one of the
reasons you decided to travel to Italy was to experience
these differences with a spirit of curiosity and a sense of
adventure.  Certainly, your sojourn will be more fulfilling if
you can learn to flow with such things as water and/or drain
problems, different opening and closing hours, strikes,
insects, gypsies, etc.  In other words, if you are only happy
with American standards, you are better off visiting Italy from
the relative protection of air-conditioned buses and deluxe
or first-class hotels.  Read on, however, if you consider
yourself the adventurous sort who wants to really get to
know Italy, the Italian people, and understand the concept
of La Dolce Vita!

SALUTATIONS:  Italians tend to be more formal
(particularly in the south) than Americans with regard to titles.  For
instance, if an Italian is an engineer, you would address him
as Ingegnere; a doctor would be Dottore or Dottoressa
(feminine).  If in doubt, it is safe to use the title Dottore, since
it refers to a graduate of the university, as well as a medical
doctor, and is a title of respect.  First names are not used
until you have become good friends, or until you are invited
to use them.

HOURS:  Stores are generally open in the morning until
12:30 or 1:00 P.M.  They are then closed until 3:30 or 4:00
P.M., or often later in the case of grocery stores.  In the
past, museums were frequently open only in the morning;
however, there is now movement toward having museums
remain open from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. every day except
Monday.   Beware of Saturday afternoons, Sunday, and all
day Monday, when many shops are closed!  Grocery stores
are generally closed on Saturday afternoon during summer
and either Wednesday or Thursday afternoon during the
rest of the year, and always on Sundays.  Many museums
and restaurants are closed on Sunday afternoon and all of
Monday.

Banks   Hours are usually 8:30 A.M. to 1:30 P.M., and
then again for one hour in the afternoon (usually 3:00-4:00
P.M.).  They are closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and
holidays.

MONEY:  Many Italian banks now offer automatic currency
exchange machines.  These are conveniently located
outside banks, in airports, and also in main train stations.
The rate of exchange through the machines is the same as
changing money directly in the bank.  For this reason, I find
it more convenient to carry only a limited  sum of U.S. cash,
rather than traveler's checks, which can mean long lines
and lots of paperwork when you want to change them.  In
order to protect your cash, however, it is prudent to carry the
cash in a "money stash" envelope, which is designed to be
worn on the body.  Another tip:  Since the currency machines
will not accept paper money larger than $50, bring
only $20 and $50 bills.

■  In addition to the automatic change machines, you will
find the ubiquitous ATM (Automated Teller Machine) along
many streets.  By using these machines you can easily
obtain cash with Visa, MasterCard, American Express, etc.
(as long as you have your PIN number) and thereby reduce
the amount of cash that you must carry.  Plus and Cirrus
are both expanding their networks in Italy.  As of February
1995 there were 850 ATMs at  Banca Nazionale del Lavoro
that use the Plus System.  In general, the cheapest way to
get cash is with a bank ATM card; however, it is much
easier to find terminals that accept credit cards.  Be aware
that it is difficult to replace lost ATM cards abroad. Note:  Be
sure that your PIN number has just four digits in order to
use it at a European bank.  Also, find out which is your
primary account, since the European ATM will automatically
debit your primary account.

■  Most restaurants and hotels take major credit cards.
The number of Visa and MasterCard signs continues to
grow and they are now found in all but the smallest towns
or establishments.

■  Be sure to keep your bank receipts when you change
money.  Without these receipts the bank may not allow you
to change your extra lira back into dollars prior to your
departure from Italy.

GROCERY SHOPPING:  There are several grocery chains
that have stores located throughout Italy.  Among these are
COOP (and IPERCOOP), MAXI SIDIS and CONAD.  Words
that will identify a food shop are:  Alimentari (food-stuff),
Supermercato (what else could they call it?), and Macelleria
(butcher shop).

■  When driving south from Milan, a very good place to
stop for groceries is the IPERCOOP at the Reggio Emilia
exit.  Go halfway around the traffic circle, and then west.
The mall/supermarket complex is located about one mile
from the traffic circle.  There are public bathrooms located
outside of the supermarket!

■  At some large chain supermarkets, you are able to use
a Visa to pay for groceries.

■  At the large supermarkets it is not uncommon to pay for
the shopping carts (usually  500) prior to entering the store.

■  Hours:  The grocery stores generally open each day
except Sunday at about 8:20 A.M., and close around 1:00
P.M. in the afternoon.  They normally re-open late in the
afternoon until 8:00 P.M., except for one afternoon a week
when they are closed.

■  Fruits and vegetables are often of better quality in the
small shops selling only produce than in the larger
supermarkets.  PLEASE don't handle the fresh produce!  In
Italy, unlike some other countries, doing so is considered to
be very bad manners!  The shopkeeper will be happy to get
it for you.  Just point to your desired selection, or use your
dictionary!  In some of the larger supermarkets, disposable
plastic gloves are provided for bagging the produce.
Nearby will be a scale for weighing the produce from which
a price sticker will be issued.

■  Fresh bread, which is made every night, is snatched up
every morning, so it is often unavailable in the afternoon.
The best place to buy bread is a bakery (forno or panificio).

■  Most grocery stores have delicatessen counters which
offer cold cuts, cheese, olives, artichoke hearts, and other
antipasti items.  A delicious picnic or light dinner can be
created very quickly from these items.

■  You will find milk in aseptic packaging in every grocery
store (Alimentari).  It is quite good.
   Latte Intero   whole milk
   Latte Parzialmente Scremato   low-fat milk
   Latte Scremato   non-fat milk.

■  Yogurt:  The word for non-fat yogurt is magro.  Brands
to look for that have non-fat yogurt:  Danone, Parmalat -
Linea Piú, Vitasnella.  In my opinion they are all superior to
the non-fat yogurt we find in markets in the U.S.  Yomo
yogurt is delicious.

■  At the chain grocery stores you will probably have to
bag your own groceries, and you may be charged for each
plastic bag you use.  The bags are useful as trash can
liners, so don't discard them!

Restaurants:  lunch hours at restaurants usually begin at
12:30 p.m. and late arriving patrons are frequently turned
away after 1:30 or 2:00 p.m.  Seating is often limited, and
when they are full, that's it until the next round.  Since a
meal may easily last for an hour, don't be late!  Dinner is
served beginning at 7:30 P.M., but most Italians don't eat
until around 9:00 P.M. in the summer.  When you get a
table in a restaurant it is yours for as long as you want it,
and no one will try to hurry you along.

■  Don't feel intimidated by the many courses listed on
menus.  Order as much or as little as you like.  I frequently
skip the secondi piatti ( main courses), and just order an
antipasto, a primo piatto (pasta or soup), and an insalata
mista (mixed salad) or vegetable.  Usually the secondi piatti
(meat and fish) are the most expensive, so if you order just
a main course and a vegetable or an antipasto, a primo,
and a contorno (side dish), you will not spend too much.  It
is considered polite to begin eating as soon as you are
served, rather than wait for others to be served.

■  Soft drinks are expensive in restaurants, but if you like
sparkling water, the acqua minerale con gas is inexpensive
and refreshingly good.

■  Cappuccino is only drunk in the morning.  Ordering it
after lunch or dinner will brand you as a tourist!  More
"socially correct" is to order a caffe macchiato, espresso
with a little steamed milk.

■  Bread is placed directly on the table (as in France) so
don't expect a bread plate.  Butter (burro) is not served with
the bread and will have to be requested if desired.

■  The service charge (servizio) is usually included in the
bill (conto), so you are not obligated to leave a tip, although
you are certainly free to leave something extra for good
service.

■  Keep an eye out for a sticker in restaurant windows that
depicts a knight on horseback with a large fork under his
arm and the words Decalogo dei Cavalieri della Buona
Tavola (Knights of the Good Table).  This symbol marks a
group of restaurants that have agreed to certain principles
such as:  Dining is to be a pleasurable experience; a clear
menu with accurate prices is to be provided; diners should
be able to order what they want without feeling embarrassed
or intimidated; no cover charge will be charged.

ITALIAN (EUROPEAN) COFFEE MAKER:    The Italians
make their coffee in small quantities using an espresso
grind and a multi-sided pressure vessel that consists of two
sections that are screwed together.  These coffee makers
come in a variety of sizes and at least one will be found in
every kitchen.
   You make the coffee by filling the basket in the top
section with the finely ground coffee and filling the bottom
section with water to just below the basket.  Then screw the
two sections together tightly so they will not leak under
pressure.  Place the entire unit directly on the burner and
heat until the water boils.  Just when you hear it stop boiling,
remove the maker from the fire and pour your coffee!

GARBAGE:  Trash and garbage is placed in the nearest big
trash container that you will frequently see along the roads
and streets.  Your plastic grocery bags from the grocery
stores make handy trash bags, so don't throw them away!
Recycling is practiced throughout Italy and you will see
round-topped green containers for glass (vetro) and yellow
ones for clean paper and cardboard (carta).

WATER / PLUMBING / ELECTRICITY:  Remember that
Italy is old, therefore, the water and drain pipes may be old,
as well.  Water pressure can vary, depending upon the time
of day, your location, and the quantity of water available.

■  Water conservation is important, particularly in the
countryside.

■  Water heaters tend to be smaller than those found in
the U.S., and electricity is certainly much more expensive!
This means that you may not have as much hot water as
you are used to.  Try adjusting your daily schedule to
accommodate the system.

■  Sometimes you may find that the hot (C for caldo) and
cold (F for freddo) water is opposite from that marked on
the controls.

■  It is not uncommon to experience clogged or "lazy"
drains.  Don't be alarmed.  Try adjusting your water usage,
but if the problem persists, question the landlord or his
agent.  They are usually most apologetic and try to be
helpful, but Italy is Italy!

■  Electricity is expensive in Italy, and you will notice rather
low wattage light bulbs in all of the homes, but remember,
it is 220-volts.  You will probably find that the lack of good
lighting is the norm, rather than the exception.  Also, be
aware that it may be impossible to run two major appliances
at the same time, and if you do, it may trip a circuit breaker.
Proceed with caution, and by all means, turn off the lights
when you leave a room!

HEATING:  Heating charges are extra and are never
included in the rental price of a property.  Fuel for heating is
very expensive, and the law on the use of central heating is
restrictive in the interest of energy conservation.  Generally
speaking, no heating is allowed from mid-April until the first
of November, although, this can vary.  During the spring and
fall (and sometimes even in June) it is possible to have quite
low temperatures, as well as rain.  My word of advice is to
come prepared!  If your rental property has a working
fireplace, you will most likely be required  to make a special
request and pay for firewood.

BEDS:  Generally speaking, the quality and firmness of
Italian beds is not up to American standards.  This is not
always the case, but it's a good idea be prepared  for beds
that may  not as comfortable as what you have at home.
There are no king or queen-size beds in Italian homes;
instead, you will find a matrimoniale bed, which is similar in
size to a queen, but slightly shorter in length.  Frequently,
you will find that this bed is composed of two single beds
shoved together.  In addition to single beds and double
beds, which more or less correspond  (but mainly less!) in
size  to U.S. beds, there is also a "French bed",  which is
midway in size.  Europeans seem to feel that the "French
bed" is acceptable for two people; however, many Americans
might disagree!

PUBLIC BATHROOMS:  First of all, public bathrooms are
not so widely found.  It often takes a little ingenuity and
patience to locate them in Italy.  Men, of course, have a
much easier time than women!  Keep in mind the following
places as likely locations when in need:  restaurants, large
cafes and bars, museums, some gas stations, and train
stations.

■  There is a real variety of toilet facilities to be found, from
first-class American Standard toilets to what are not much
more than porcelain holes in the floor, so prepare yourself!

■  Always carry tissues with you for the times (frequent!)
when there is no toilet paper to be found.

■  In airports, train stations, or large chain cafeterias (such
as Pavesi and Agip) you will find bathroom attendants on
hand to give you toilet paper (sometimes), clean the
facilities, and to take your tip when you leave.  Two hundred
to five hundred lire is an acceptable amount to leave.

■  Be forewarned:  it is not unusual for the public bathrooms
to be unisex, so don't be shocked by a lack of
modesty in behavior or facilities.

■  Signore means women, and Signori means men.

BUYING GAS:  Some gas stations will take credit cards;
however the practice varies, so always have cash on hand.
Ask for mi faccia il pieno if you want to fill the tank.  Most
gas stations are only full service, and they will check the oil
and wash the windows if you take the time to ask them.
Controllare l'olio means "check the oil".

TELEPHONES:  By all means bring your AT&T, Sprint, and
MCI calling cards for international calls, BUT be prepared
for some areas where the international access numbers
have been blocked by the local telephone companies.  The
international access numbers are:  Sprint - 172-1877; AT&T
- 172-1011; MCI - 172-1022.  If you are not able to use the
access numbers, you can dial 170 to reach an Italian
operator (this can take repeated efforts, so you must be
patient).  When calling from pay phones insert a 200 lire
coin or a gettone prior to dialing.  It is also possible to place
direct overseas calls by dialing 001 + the area code and
number.  Be aware that International calls from Italy are
expensive!

■  To confirm flights home from Italy, save yourself the
hassle of trying to reach the airline offices in Italy (which are
frequently closed, out to lunch, or just don't answer) by
calling the Sprint, AT&T, or MCI access numbers to reach
a U.S. operator.  Since the U.S. airline reservation offices
are open for phone calls around the clock, it is easy to have
them confirm your flight home.  Just have handy the U.S.
telephone number for the airline.  Usually, the calling card
operators will not take an 800 number, so it's wise to  have
both numbers with you.

■  More and more public telephones that use calling cards
(carta telefonica or scheda, which can be purchased in train
stations, airports, post offices, news stands, and Tabacchi)
are springing up around cities and towns.  These cards are
much more convenient to use than gettoni, which are the
heavy brass tokens purchased in bars, news stands, or
Tabacchi for insertion into the older style of public tele-
phone.  The calling cards are sold in denominations of
 5,000 and  10,000 lire.  In train stations and airports the
cards can be obtained from large orange-colored automatic
vending machines, which are usually located near the
telephones.  The telephone automatically deducts the
amount of the call from your card.  You can use the card
again, as long as you haven't used up the credit.  The lire
that you have remaining are indicated on the telephone.

■  Some telephones will take a variety of credit cards,
such as MasterCard, Visa, and American Express.

■  Standard payphones accept 100, 200, and 500 lire
coins, as well as telephone tokens (gettoni).  When more
gettoni  or coins are required, you will hear a beep, at which
time you must insert them very quickly.  Unused tokens will
be returned to you if you push the return button.

■  If, when making international calls, you cannot find a
telephone that uses a carta telefonica, find a telephone in a
bar which is equipped with a telephone meter; go to the
main post office; or go to an office operated by SIP.  The
latter are located in major cities and towns.

■  Cellular phones seem to be even more prevalent in Italy
than in the U.S.  It is common to find them pressed to ears
in the street, in restaurants and bars, or at the beach.
Apparently, it is comparatively easy to rent a telefonia
mobile, by stopping at a SIP office (or an office displaying a
Autotelefoni SIP sign) in the main towns and cities.  Or you
can arrange for the rental of a cellular phone from the U.S.,
by contacting The Parker Company, Ltd., the U.S. representative
for Europe on Line (Telephone:  [phone]).  The
rates for 1995 were $14.00 per day, plus charges for
outgoing calls.   I recently rented a phone through this
company, and I would be happy to share the details of my
experience with you.

■  When calling within Italy, insert a "0" before the city
code.

MAIL/STAMPS:  Mail delivery in Italy is unreliable and
erratic.  It can take from seven days to six weeks to receive
mail from Italy.  Postage may be purchased either at
Tabacchi shops or directly at the post office.  Post offices
are generally open from 8:30 to 2:00 P.M.  On Saturday and
the last day of the month they close at 12:00 P.M.  The main
post offices in large cities and in airports are open 24 hours
a day for registered mail and telegram services.

TRAINS / BUSES:  Remember, as you read the train and
bus schedules, that the 24-hour clock is used.

■  You will sometimes find a special counter at the train
stations for credit card ticket payments.  The good news is
that you will rarely find a line at these windows; the bad
news is that they are frequently closed!

■  It is worthwhile to make a seat reservation for any long
train trip.  Go to the station two days before your trip to
reserve seats.  There is a small charge for this, but it
assures that on a crowded train your group will be able to sit
together.

■  Most bus headquarters are located at or near the train
stations.  The bus schedules can usually be obtained for
each bus there.  They can be quite useful for mapping your
routes.

■  Bus tickets are valid for a duration of time, regardless of
destination, within the metropolitan area.  There is a ticket
box mounted to a post near the rear of the bus which places
a date and time stamp on your ticket stub.  You are supposed
to validate your ticket when you start your trip.  The
Italians, however, are very blasé about using the machines,
because the officials who check tickets are rarely in evidence.

■  The proper bus etiquette is to enter the bus at the rear
and exit in the middle.  Signal for your stop by pushing a
button near the exit before you want to get off (another
reason for obtaining a bus schedule).

■  Bus tickets can be purchased from a ticket machine
near the main stops, at a Tabacchi, newspaper kiosk, or
from many bars.

■  Pay careful attention to the bus numbers; some have
suffixes added to the numbers.  For example, bus 25A has
a different destination from bus 25.

STRIKES:  It's best to adjust your mental attitude on the
subject of strikes before going to Italy.  They occur frequently
and suddenly.  During a recent trip we encountered
a train strike, a gasoline delivery strike, and an airport strike
of some type.  If you have a definite schedule to follow, be
sure to have a Plan B or be ready to get creative, in case
Plan A is disrupted due to a strike.

VANDALISM/THEFT:  When walking the streets of any city
it is always a good idea to guard your pockets, purse and
camera.  The cities of Italy are no exception.  They are not
at all unsafe, but it is better to be "safe than sorry!"  Pay
particularly close attention in crowded places   quiet hands
that might remove your camera or purse contents or make
a  quick snatch as you are exiting a taxi.  Don't wear valuables
or carry items that might make you a target of opportunity.
   If you have a rental car, never leave items in the body
of the car that would identify you as tourists (maps, guidebooks,
cameras, suitcases, etc.).  You might consider it
cheap insurance to purchase an Italian newspaper to be left
clearly visible in your car!
   Money belts and undergarment pouches are worthwhile
to bring with you. As for myself, I usually feel quite comfort-
able about leaving my airline tickets, credit cards, etc. at my
countryside rental property during my daily excursions out
and about.  In a fanny pack or shoulder purse (that I wear
across my body) I take with me only enough cash and/or a
credit card for the day.  This system has worked well for me
for the past twelve years.

TO BRING WITH YOU:  After twelve years of renting
properties in Italy, I've compiled a list  of useful things to
bring along:  kitchen and scrub sponge, baggies, ziplock
bags, rubber bands, matches, extra batteries, flashlight, an
emergency roll of toilet paper, tissues, Spray n' Wash stick,
jackknife/screwdriver, corkscrew, some clothes hangers,
pocket calculator, small cassette or CD player and tapes or
CDS, string bag, money belt.  If traveling with children you
might bring some powdered drink mix to stir into regular or
sparkling water.  It sure beats the cost of bottled drinks, and
it's easy to transport!  Another very useful thing to bring with
you is an "itty bitty book light".  It is inexpensive, lightweight,
and solves the problem of trying to read under dim Italian
light bulbs.

LAUNDRY / CLEANING:  Look for the sign "TINTORIA" for
cleaning and pressing, and "LAVANDERIA" for laundry.
Laundromats are difficult to find in Italy; however, there is a
"Wash & Dry Lavarapido" in Florence, next to 45 Via dei
Servi, just south of the Piazza S.S. Annunziata.

INSECTS:   * BUG ALERT * BUG ALERT* !!!
There are lots of mosquitos and other flying objects in Italy
during the warm months, and very few houses have any
screens.  Come prepared!  The stores offer various devices
to keep them away, but they are of varying efficacy.  One
device that I can recommend is the antizanzare elettrico, a
small inexpensive appliance into which is inserted a pias-
trine, small treated tablets, prior to plugging into an outlet.
One brand to look for is BAYGON.  These devices can be
found in most grocery stores.  I receive dozens of compla-
ints about the insects every year, so please bring repellents
with you, or plan to purchase some type of protection when
you arrive.  You might also consider bringing some mosquito
nets and masking tape for the beds or windows.

ENGLISH YELLOW PAGES:   It is possible to order a copy
of the English Yellow Pages, which lists English-speaking
doctors, lawyers, accountants, plumbers, cleaners, etc., in
several Italian cities.  To order by mail, send a payment of
 15,000 to:  English Yellow Pages, Via XX Settembre 5,
00187 Roma, Italy.  It is also available in Italy at
English/American bookstores in the major cities.  For a list
of these stores, FAX the company:  011-39-6-4744509.

GUIDEBOOKS / MAPS:  I highly recommend the CAD-
OGAN guides to Italy.  Written by Dana Facaros and
Michael Pauls (CADOGAN BOOKS, Ltd.), they are very well
organized and researched.  There are seven guides,
covering all of Italy.  I am the most familiar with the TUS-
CANY, UMBRIA  and the NORTHEAST ITALY guides, both
of which are excellent.  Otherwise, the FROMMER'S
COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO ITALY, or the MICHELIN
GREEN GUIDE are both reliable guide books.

■  The best place to buy maps in Italy is in a book store.

■   For both guidebooks and maps purchased in the U.S.
there are now many good travel book stores.  Two respected
companies that distribute catalogs from which you
can order are:  BOOK PASSAGE  [phone], and
FORSYTH TRAVEL LIBRARY  [phone].  Both carry
a wide and complete inventory of guidebooks and maps for
the entire world.

TRAVEL SUPPLIES:  For travel supplies of every kind, from
travel pillows to luggage, I recommend MAGELLAN'S.  For
a free catalog call:  800/962-4943.

                    IV.  ON THE CITY OF FLORENCE

GUIDE BOOK:  Florence-Walks, by Anne Holler, is a
wonderful guide for walking tours of this enchanting city.

PARKING:  This has always been a problem in Florence
and is increasingly difficult, but here are three supervised
car parks that are convenient:  Piazza Stazione (this handy
underground parking in front of the train station is a very
central location), Fortezza da Basso  and Piazza Carmine
(located south of the river).  A few words of warning to those
who choose to park on the street:  the streets are washed
each week.  If your car is left on the street when it is sched-
uled to be washed, your car will be towed away and you will
have to pay a stiff fee to release it from the impound yard!
Parking in Florence appears to be quite chaotic and free
form, but despite these appearances, there is a system and
its rules are sometimes rigorously enforced.
   If you have a choice between driving into Florence and
taking a train from a nearby town, by all means choose the
train.  Florence is an easy city to walk around.  Many of the
streets in the center are closed to auto traffic during the day,
and the train station is close to the center.

FAVORITE PLACES:  Some favorite places of mine which
are listed in the guidebooks, but which I believe deserve
special attention are the following:

■  MUSEO DI STORIA DELLA SCIENZA (Museum of the
History of Science) is a fascinating museum for children as
well as adults, which is located very close to the UFFIZI
along the Arno.  It includes many of the original experimental
devices used by Galileo.

■  BRANCACCI CHAPEL   In the CHURCH OF THE
CARMINE   newly restored frescos by Masaccio, which
really should be seen!

■  BARGELLO MUSEUM   A museum of important
renaissance sculpture.  It is one of my family's favorites.

■  MUSEO SAN MARCO   See the cells painted by Fra
Angelico.

SPECIAL TREAT:  Try to visit the CORRIDOIO VASARI-
ANO.  This is an old passage that connects the UFFIZI to
the PALAZZO PITTI by a corridor that extends across the
river through the PONTE VECCHIO at the second story
level.  It houses room after room of important paintings that
are seldom seen by the public.  A special reservation must
be made at the UFFIZI ticket office at least two days in
advance.  The telephone number:  283-044.

SHOPS:  I won't be so presumptuous as to make a list of
shops to visit, but one place not to miss is the OFFICINA DI
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA (Via della Scala).  Not only is the
physical building very beautiful and imposing, but this
pharmacy sells perfumes, soaps, colognes, etc., that have
been made for centuries using the same recipes.  It's a
wonderful place to buy unique gifts as well as to rub
shoulders with the Florentine aristocracy who shop there.

RESTAURANTS:  There are so many good restaurants in
Florence, that I struggle to choose a few favorites, but here
they are:
■  RISTORANTE ENOTECA (87 Via Ghibellina, [phone])
is considered one of the top restaurants in Florence.
Expensive.

■  PAOLI (12r Via dei Tavolini, [phone]), with its
beautiful interior, is an appropriate restaurant for a special
occasion.  If you like spicy pasta, try the penne alla car-
retiera.  Paoli's version is the best I've ever had!

■  MAMMA GINA (Borgo San Jacopo) serves very good
food at reasonable prices.  It is located on the south side of
the Arno just across the Ponte Vecchio.  Italian family
clientele.

■  LA SOSTANZA (Via del Porcellana 25/r, [phone])
serves good Tuscan food in a very casual setting.  Popular
with Florentines, as well as tourists.

CENTRAL MARKET:  The CENTRAL MARKET is open
everyday except Sunday, from 7:00 a.m. until 1:00 p.m.,
and Saturday from 4:30 to 7:30 p.m..  It is really worth a visit
(or several), particularly if you plan to do any cooking during
your stay.  Just take a backpack with you so that you can
stow your produce.  The market is located in the historical
center, very near the San Lorenzo church.

MUSIC:  The MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO runs
throughout May and June in Florence, featuring operas,
ballets, and concerts.  For further information, call or fax the
Biglietteria Teatro Comunale:  Tel. [phone] or
211158; Fax [phone].  Or contact the Box
Office:  Tel.  [phone]; Fax  [phone].

EVENTS IN FLORENCE & TUSCANY:  Published in
English and available for purchase in Florence, "Events" is
published six times a year.  It is a valuable resource for the
visitor to Tuscany.  Contact:  Events, Lungarno Corsini, 6,
50123 Firenze, Italy.  Tel./Fax:  [phone]

                   V.  EXCURSIONS AROUND TUSCANY

   The region of Tuscany affords an endless opportunity
to visit historical and beautiful locations.  The following are
some of my favorite places that serve as destinations when
I want something beyond the hustle and bustle of Florence.

FIESOLE:  Take the bus #7 (from the train station or Piazza
San Marco) to FIESOLE.  It's a short 25-minute trip and it's
lovely.  FIESOLE is a charming town filled with interesting
places to visit (Archeological Zone), invigorating walks (Via
S. Francesco to the Monastero di San Francesco, or along
the hill behind the Palazzo Pretorio) and fun restaurants.
The PIZZERIA ETRUSCA in the town square makes
wonderful pizza!

■  Halfway up the hill to Fiesole (on bus #7, the stop is San
Domenico) is the church of San Domenico, near which is a
very good pizzeria, RISTORANTE SAN DOMENICO.  It is
a favorite spot for the locals to meet, so you need to get
there early in order to secure a table.  The food is very
good, and it is a great place to escape the tourists!

■  If you are in the area in July or August, try to get tickets
for a performance (concerts, dance and movies) in the
Roman Amphitheatre in FIESOLE.  The ESTATE FIE-
SOLANA runs through July and August.  Tel:  [phone]
Fax:  [phone]

LUCCA:  An excellent choice for a half-day visit, LUCCA is
an old walled city that allows no vehicles into the center of
town.  Drive through one of the gates in the wall to the
central parking area and then strike out on foot.  It's a
beautiful little city to explore.  I recommend the restaurant:
BUCA DI SANT'ANTONIO, Via della Cervia 1 (0583-55-948).
A short drive from town in PIEVE S. STEFANO, is
VIPORE, a fine restaurant recommended very highly by cli-
ents.

SAN GIMIGNANO:  This is a favorite place I visit on every
trip to Italy.  The view from it's fabled towers, built by noble
families for their mutual protection, is tremendous.  Aside
from the COLLEGIATA, don't miss the frescoes by Gozzoli
in the CHIESA DI SANT'AGOSTINO.  LE TERRAZZE (in LA
CISTERNA hotel) is a very good restaurant (0577-940-328)
with a spectacular view. It is closed Wednesday.  Unfortunately,
SAN GIMIGNANO is attracting greater crowds of
tourists.  While I still love it, the tourist-avoiding traveler
might consider VINCI, instead.

VINCI:  This lovely little town, the birthplace of Leonardo da
Vinci, is located  west of Florence and is surrounded by hills
of olives and vines.  You won't find many tourists here, thank
goodness, but you will find a fascinating museum (open
daily) filled with the drawings and accompanying models of
Leonardo.  The models of his inventions are well displayed,
well lit, and there is an English description of each one next
to the Italian.  The museum is definitely worth a visit, and
children will enjoy it, too.

   SIENA:  Another favorite city, SIENA really comes alive
around the time of its famous no-holds-barred horse race,
known as the PALIO (July 2 and August 16).  This medieval
horse race is truly an event to experience, and it is worth
the expense to purchase good seats, but you must do this
early because the event is always sold out.  For a list of
merchants or organizations who sell tickets, contact the
AZIENDA AUTONOMA DI TURISMO, Piazza del Campo
56, 53100 SIENA, ITALY.  The telephone number is:
011-39-577-280-551.  The fax is:  011-39-577-270-676.  If you
have difficulty obtaining a list of merchants to contact, call
me.  I have four names you can try.  You can also join the
masses standing in the center of the square free of charge.
In order to see the parade and race, you will have to secure
a spot along the track, which requires a very early arrival at
the Piazza del Campo.  Otherwise, you may be overcome
by claustrophobia and the fear of being trampled by excited
Sienese.

■  SIENA PARCHEGGIO:  There is a new public parking
garage in the center of SIENA.  Take the San Marco exit off
the Superstrada, and follow the signs for Siena Parcheggio
(blue "P" sign).  The garage is located in the area of the
university, and it is a very short walk to the Piazza del
Campo.  I highly recommend using this garage!

■  AL MANGIA (0577-281-121) on the Piazza del Campo,
serves great food in a wonderful setting.  It is a good place
to have lunch and then watch the people stroll by as you
linger over a second espresso.  Another top restaurant is AL
MARSILI (3 Via del Castoro (0577-47154) which features
really fantastic service in a beautifully decorated room with
brick alcoves.  They serve the best grilled porcini mush-
rooms I have ever eaten!  For wine lovers, the best place to
buy the wine of the region is the government-sponsored
enoteca in the city.

CHIANTI:  The drive through the CHIANTI region (the area
between FLORENCE and SIENA) on the Via Chiantigiana,
is beautiful, peaceful, and not over-crowded by tourists.

■  In CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI, stop at ALBERGACCIO
DI CASTELLINA for a gourmet lunch or dinner (0577-741042).
Closed Monday.

■  In RADDA IN CHIANTI, PETROIO (VIGNALE) is a good
choice for a sample of Tuscan home cooking.

■  For a special treat, locate on a detailed map of Tuscany
(near RADDA) the BADIA A COLTIBUONO.  This is an old
abbey that is now a major winery.  Treat yourself to a drive
there for lunch (the restaurant is located in an outbuilding
near the old abbey) and an after-lunch walk in the woods.
On the way back you can buy the excellent Badia a Colti-
buono Chianti at the small shop near the entry road.

■  Another stop for good food in the same area is IL
VESCOVINO in PANZANO (midway between GREVE,
CASTELLINA, and RADDA).

■  A very good restaurant in the Chianti that is a member
of Jeunes Restaurateurs d' Europe (Young Restaurateurs
of Europe) is IL SALOTTO DEL CHIANTI in MERCATALE
VAL DI PESA.  I recently had dinner there, and I was very
impressed by the quality of the food and the artistry of the
presentation.

■  Yet another treat is just off the Superstrada to SIENA in
the little walled town of MONTERRIGIONI,   This is also a
very picturesque spot to visit or spend the night and a
wonderful place for lunch or dinner.  Located in the piazza,
IL POZZO serves delicious regional dishes.  I'm  still trying
to duplicate their Zuppa di Fagioli!  Just across the lane is
another delightful restaurant, which has become quite
upscale since the construction of the nearby four-star
HOTEL MONTERIGGIONI (lovely).  Fax:  [phone]
Tel:  [phone]

■  BADIA A PASSIGNANO is a tiny hamlet located near
PANZANO, with a restaurant and an old badia, which
presents concerts during the late spring and summer.

■  Strade Bianche (white roads) is the Italian term for
unpaved roads and in the CHIANTI  region there are many
to be found!  If you are not in a hurry and you are looking for
beautiful countryside, take some of the strade bianche, but
be advised that they can be bumpy and dusty!

OTHER COUNTRYSIDE DESTINATIONS:  For a beautiful
drive out of Florence and away from the tourist buses, take
the road to SETTIGNANO, then go on to PONTASSIEVE,
next  to VALLOMBROSA, and finally to POPPI.  There is a
wonderful and inexpensive ristorante in VALLOMBROSA
called PENSIONI MEDICI.  They serve a good country meal
(pasta, grilled chicken, wine, coffee) for a reasonable price.
There is also a charming ristorante near the castello on the
top of the hill in the town of POPPI.

■  Another nice drive is to go to BORGO SAN LORENZO,
to FAENZA (where the beautiful pottery is made) to FORLI,
to PONTASSIEVE, and back to FLORENCE.  In the old
section of BORGO SAN LORENZO there is an inexpensive
but charming restaurant, GLI ARTISTI, which serves a
delicious baked and stuffed tomato, marinated eggplant,
and homemade pastas.  A lovely town very nearby is
SCARPERIA.

■  A short bus (#25A) or car ride north from FLORENCE
will take you to PRATOLINO and the PARK VILLA DEMI-
DOFF.  The little town of PRATOLINO is not exciting, but
there is a very good restaurant in town, ZOCCHI, whose
dining room looks out onto the park.  The real reason,
however, for traveling up the hill to PRATOLINO is to
escape the heat and crowds of FLORENCE and spend the
afternoon in the PARK VILLA DEMIDOFF, a beautiful old
park which dates back to the 1500's.  Giambologna's
massive sculpted Appennino is worth seeing.  The park is
large and well-maintained, with charming paths and
meadows of grass.  There are frequent concerts performed
there, and there is also a bar located behind the villa that
serves drinks and snacks.  The park is only open Friday thru
Sunday.

CORTONA:  A beautiful hill town close to Arezzo and Lake
Trasimeno, CORTONA should be visited.  It has a magnificent
setting with views to the south of the lake and beyond.
To see the town well, be prepared to hike up to the Chiesa
di Santa Margherita, and then down to the Piazza della Re-
pubblica and the Piazza del Duomo.  LA LOGGETTA is a
lovely restaurant on the main piazza.  The dishes are
presented with artistry, and the food is very good.

SOUTHERN TUSCANY:  Located south of Siena, there are
several hill towns that deserve to be visited:  MONTE-
PULCIANO, MONTALCINO, PIENZA, CHIUSI.

■  If you don't mind a little exercise, park you car in the car
park as you enter MONTEPULCIANO, and walk up the hill
to the PIAZZA GRANDE.  It's a real hike!  The town is
known for its Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a famous red
wine.  For lunch I recommend the restaurant LA GROTTA,
which is located directly across from the beautiful San
Biagio church by  Antonio da Sangallo at the foot of the hill.
Another good place for lunch is LA CHIUSA, located in
MONTEFOLLONICO, a pretty village very near
MONTEPULCIANO.

■  MONTALCINO is another nice hill town to explore.  It is
also worthwhile to visit the beautiful Romanesque church of
Sant' Antimo near MONTALCINO.  If you are fortunate (as
I was once) to arrive during a service when the church
resonates with Gregorian chants, you are in for a special
treat.  The interior of the church is made of white travertine
and alabaster.

■  PIENZA is a lovely little town, which has been discovered
by tourists (including Italian) only in the past few years.
The main street is filled with shops selling cheese, sausages,
honey and preserves, health foods, antiques,
ceramics, and leather-work.  IL PRATO, a restaurant on
Piazza Dante, serves good local dishes, such as Fontina
alla Griglia (grilled fontina cheese served with a fresh
tomato sauce   delicious!).

■  CHIUSI has a wonderful archaeological museum as
well as some Etruscan painted tombs nearby.  It is a pretty
drive to LAGO DI CHIUSI, just a few kilometers northeast of
Chiusi.  LA FATTORIA is a charming ivy covered hotel and
restaurant with good food and views of the lake.  If you've
ever wanted to try eel (a specialty of the area), this is a good
place to do it.

SOUTHERN TUSCAN COAST:  If you are after the Italian
beach life, but want to avoid the crowds, head down (but not
in August!) the southern Tuscan coast to ANSEDONIA,
ORBETELL0 and MONTE ARGENTARIO.  There is not
much left of ancient ANSEDONIA, although up a steep hill
you can find Roman ruins of the old city of COSA. An-
sedonia today is composed of a small hotel and restaurant
and hillsides of secluded villas overlooking the sea.  The
town of ORBETELLO is a charming town, with good places
to eat and a nice downtown area closed off to cars.  It is an
agreeable spot for an evening passeggiata (stroll).  Continuing
on the causeway from Orbetello to MONTE ARG-
ENTARIO, you can go south to the resort town of PORTO
ERCOLE, or north to PORTO SANTO STEFANO, both
elegant beach resorts.  The very exclusive and expensive
hotel, Il Pelicano, is located near Porto Ercole.

■  The very delightful village of CAPALBIO is located just
six kilometers inland, and is an easy drive for lunch or
dinner or a stroll up its winding streets.

■  Calling itself the first city in Italy, SATURNIA, is a spa
town within easy reach of Ansedonia.  Pre-Etruscan
fragments have been discovered in the area, but the design
of the present town dates from the Roman era.  If you want
an adventure, park your car along the road before you
reach the town (if you are coming from the south), and
follow the bathers (and the sulphur smell) down the dirt
road to the "public spa".  There are no changing rooms, so
be prepared!  You will meet several nationalities splashing
and swimming in the hot sulphur water.  RISTORANTE I
DUE CIPPI is a very good restaurant in town.  It may look
rather ordinary outside, but the decor is lovely, and the
menu is interesting.

■  Other Etruscan ruins and tombs are nearby.  Close to
SOVANA is an Etruscan necropolis.  The walls of
PITIGLIANO are of Etruscan origin, and wonderful painted
tombs can be visited at TARQUINIA and CERVETERI
(although they are both in the region of Lazio, rather than
Tuscany!).

■  Nature lovers will enjoy visiting the MONTI
DELL'UCCELLINA park, along the MAREMMA coast.

                   VI.  EXCURSIONS AROUND UMBRIA

PERUGIA:  Just as Florence is special to Tuscany,
PERUGIA is an Umbrian jewel.  It is cosmopolitan, filled with
old treasures, and a wonderful city to explore on foot.  The
evening passeggiata, when everyone descends upon the
main square to stroll and be seen, is a wonderful spectacle.
After partaking in the passaggiata, go to LA TAVERNA, on
Via delle Streghe, for a delicious meal.  We were very
fortunate to meet the owner, Claudio Brugalosi, who treated
us to a gelato at the best place in town (or so he claimed!).
If you get a chance to eat at his restaurant, be sure to say
"Ciao" from me!  For the jazz lover, the well-known UM-
BRIA JAZZ FESTIVAL in PERUGIA takes place in July.  Tel:
011-39-75-5732432  Fax:  [phone]

ASSISI:  Everyone seems to know about ASSISI, and the
tour buses attest to that fact!  It is worth a visit, however, if
only to see the frescoes by GIOTTO.  Besides, if you can
overlook the crowds, it is still a charming town.

ORVIETO: The town of ORVIETO is located midway
between Florence and Rome (about two hours from each).
It is a beautiful town perched on a pedestal of volcanic tufa.
Besides the setting, the cathedral, one of Italy's greatest, is
worth the trip.  Also worthy is a stop at LA GROTTA DEL
FUNARO (Via Ripa Serancia 41   Closed Mondays), a
restaurant tucked in the corner of the tufa rock at the edge
of town.  I highly recommend ordering the antipasti misti to
start the meal   it's a wonderful assortment of salads,
olives, marinated eggplant, artichoke hearts, roasted
peppers, etc.

TODI:  Another pretty hill town to visit, TODI is filled with
narrow, winding streets and stairs.  It also has beautiful
vistas of the surrounding countryside.  For wonderful food
in a awe-inspiring setting, go to L'UMBRIA.  The food and
service is good; the prices are moderate.  It is located under
the arches off the Piazza del Popolo.

GUBBIO:  GUBBIO is really spectacular and is worth the
drive.  As you approach the town you are struck by the
parallel rows of stone buildings that are built into the hill.
The view from the beautiful Piazza della Signoria is
breathtaking.  GUBBIO is the town (along with DERUTA) in
which to purchase hand-painted ceramics from shops that
line the Via dei Consoli, the main street.  For a gourmet
lunch, head to FORNACE DI MASTRO GIORGIO on the
street of the same name (closed Monday).  Order either the
Menu Turistico or Menu Degustazione for a true culinary
experience (but be prepared for the expense!).  Another
good restaurant recommended to me by clients is TA-
VERNA DEL LUPO, ON Via Ansidei.  RISTORANTE
PIZZERIA SAN FRANCESCO E IL LUPO on Via Cairoli is
less expensive, and it serves good pizzas and antipasti.

DERUTA:  A charming small town with parking outside the
gates, DERUTA is the place to buy ceramics.  You will
probably lose your mind trying to decide which shop has the
best selection!  One nice shop is U. GRAZIA on Via Tiberina
181.  While you are trying to make up your mind which
ceramics to buy, stop at LA FONTANNINA for lunch.  It has
a nice outside patio with a large tree for shade and a
beautiful view of the valley.

SPELLO:  After visiting ASSISI, head southeast to SPELLO,
its smaller and more intimate twin.  It's a charming little town
with winding streets and lovely vistas.  It also has a wonderful
restaurant, IL MOLINO (closed Tuesday), which serves
delicious grilled meats, bruschetta, and porcini (when in
season).

SPOLETO:  The FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI is a very
well-known music festival held in SPOLETO every summer (mid
June to mid July).  SPOLETO is a charming town to visit any
time, but during the festival it really comes alive.  The local
cuisine is delicious, as well.  For information on the festival
call:  011-39-743-220-311.

                 VII.  EXCURSIONS AROUND THE VENETO

   When one thinks of the Veneto, the city of Venice
always comes to mind.  However, there are many other
wonderful towns in the area which are less well-known and
less visited by tourists that deserve a visit.  I recommend that
you find the book, Italian Neighbors, by Tim Parks.  This  is
a fun book written by an Englishman who moved to a small
town outside of Verona.  It gives a good introduction to the
joys and irritants of life as a foreigner in the Veneto region.

VERONA:  The city of Romeo and Giulietta is graceful,
elegant, and sophisticated.  The best way to approach the
city is to go through the Porta Nuova and then find a parking
place (there is a large parking garage on the right that is
quite close to the Piazza Bra.  The ancient Arena, which
dominates the Piazza Bra, is the scene of innumerable
concerts and operas throughout the year.  It is worthwhile to
pay the admission fee of 6,000 lire to be able to explore the
inside and to climb to the top for a view of the piazza.  From
there you should walk down the Via Mazzini to the Piazza
Erbe, another beautiful piazza, and explore medieval
VERONA.

■  The summer opera season at the Arena runs through
July and August.  For tickets, write or fax for a schedule and
price list:  Biglietteria, Ente Arena di Verona, Piazza Bra, 28,
37100 Verona, Italy.  The telephone number is:  011-39-45-590-966
or 45-590-726.  The fax number is:  011-39-45-590-201.  Once
you have the schedule, you can send an international money
order to the ticket office with your ticket order.

■  For an expensive treat, stop at the restaurant, DODICI
APOSTOLI, which is near the Piazza Erbe.  The restaurant
is rather hard to find, since it is located on a tiny square, but
the search is worthwhile.  The interior is a traditional Renaissance
setting with frescoed walls.  Order carefully because
it is expensive, but be assured, the food and the setting are
definitely worth it. (Corticella San Marco 3, tel. [phone])

VICENZA:  Like Verona, a part of old VICENZA is blocked
off to automobile traffic. Home of Palladio, the famous High
Renaissance architect, the city is full of his designs.  With
your guidebook in hand, walk through the Piazza Signori,
across the Ponte San Marco, then back to the Teatro Olim-
pico.  The old town is small, intimate, and alive with Italians.
For lunch or dinner I recommend the TRE VISI at Contra
Porti 6 (tel. [phone]).  The food is delicious, and the
ambiance pleasing.

MAROSTICA:  This is the town of the human chess game
(Partita a Scacchi) that is staged every two years (even
years in September) in the main piazza.  MAROSTICA is a
charming medieval town, complete with old walls and a
castle atop the hill (worth a hike for the views).  A great
place for lunch is PIZZERIA-TRATTORIA ALL'ALFIERE
(Piazza Castello 16, on the main piazza).  If you are there
on Sunday, be sure to visit the museum in the castle on the
square where costumes used in the chess match  are on
display.

ASOLO:  On the day that you drive to the pretty town of
ASOLO, also be sure to visit (or at least drive through)
CASTELFRANCO VENETO, CITTADELLA and BASSANO
DEL GRAPPA.  ASOLO is perched on a hill and is every bit
as picturesque as the books say.  For lunch I recommend
HOSTERIA CA' DERTON (Piazza D'Annunzio 11,
tel. [phone]).  If porcini is in season, do order the porcini alla
griglia con polenta (grilled porcini mushrooms with polenta).
A memorable dish!

LAKE GARDA:  For a spectacular drive take the road
around the lake, beginning at the north end.  You will be
amazed at the changes in the landscape as well as the
character of the towns as you drive north to south.  The east
side of the lake is said to be slower paced and less expensive
than the west side.  My husband and I managed a night
at the ALBERGO GARDESANA (tel. [phone], fax
045-722-5771), an attractive and inexpensive hotel right on
the port at TORRI DEL BENACO, a pretty resort town on
the east side of the lake.
                      VIII.  THE CINQUE TERRE

   Whenever I read magazine or newspaper articles about
the "untouched" CINQUE TERRE, I wonder how long this
isolated strip of Italian coastline can remain  unknown by the
hoards of tourists pouring into Italy.  It is a wonderful hike
along the narrow trails that connect the five towns of
MONTEROSSO, VERNAZZA, MANAROLA, CORNIGLIA,
and RIOMAGGIORE.  Each town offers the opportunity to
enjoy the local cuisine and wine.  Bring comfortable shoes
with good tread (the trails can be slippery in drizzle).

WHEN TO GO:  Spring and fall are the best times to visit
the region.  Even then, it is best to avoid the weekends,
when many Italians flock to the towns.  I was there in mid-October,
and despite some occasional drizzle, it was a fine
time to hike the trails connecting the towns.  There were few
tourists, Italian or otherwise.

HOW TO GET THERE:  If you are driving, look for exit signs
for LE CINQUE TERRE on the Autostrada A-12.  It is
possible to drive to each of the towns; however, be warned
that most of the roads are winding, with unpaved sections.
It is also important to know that once you arrive in town,
finding a parking place can be very difficult, especially
during the spring and fall, and impossible during the sum-
mer.
   Avoiding parking hassles is one of the main reasons for
traveling by train.  There are several (almost hourly) trains
a day from both Genoa and La Spezia to each of the towns.
The towns themselves are only a few minutes apart by train.
Your hotel or pensione should be able to provide a current
timetable.  There is also boat service between the towns
(except for Corniglia) five times a day.

HIKING PATHS:  The sentieri are the hiking paths that
connect the CINQUE TERRE and the two towns of LE-
VANTO (north of MONTEROSSO) and PORTO VENERE
(south of RIO MAGGIORE).  Some of the paths are steep
and long, and others are short and fairly level.  It is important
to check at your hotel or pensione which of the paths
are open.  NOTE:  Two of the footpaths have recently
reopened after being closed for several years.

WHERE TO STAY:  The HOTEL PORTO ROCA, in
MONTEROSSO AL MARE (the old section of the town) is
the nicest and most expensive hotel in the area (tel. [phone]-
817502; fax:  [phone]).  The rooms on the
top floor are small, but they have large private terraces over
the sea.  Less expensive rooms are available.  I did not find
the dining room particularly inviting, especially considering
the wonderful restaurants nearby.  It is important to note:
The hotel is quite a hike uphill from the train station or the
public parking lot.  If you call the hotel from the train station
or ring a buzzer at the base of the hill, a minibus will come
pick you up.  I did not realize this until after I had struggled
with my luggage up the very steep road to the entrance!
   Other less expensive hotels/pensioni are:  HOTEL CA'
D'ANDREAN in MANAROLA (tel. [phone]);
MARINA PICCOLA in the same town (tel. [phone]-
20103, fax [phone]); PENSIONE SORRISO (tel.
011-39-187-812224) in VERNAZZA, which is the most
picturesque of the five towns.  A number of people have
recommended staying in LEVANTO, a town just north of
MONTEROSSO, which is also on the train line.

WHERE TO EAT:  Finding interesting restaurants or tra-
ttorie in the CINQUE TERRE is easy, particularly if you like
seafood.  In VERNAZZA, the GAMBERO ROSSO (tel. 812-265),
which many consider to be the best in the area, was
in my opinion, very good, but expensive.  In addition, the
service was very slow, even by Italian standards (two hours
passed before we were finally served).  AL CASTELLO (tel.
812-296), which is nearby, is also listed as a fine restaurant,
and it is less expensive.  In MONTEROSSO, we tried
several trattorie, our favorite being AL POZZO, where we
ordered the menu del giorno.  It was delicious and inexpensive.
While in the region, be sure to try the fresh anchovies
with lemon!
                            IX.  SICILY

   For the adventurous with a love of antiquity, SICILY is a
wonderful destination!  Unless you plan to spend all of your
time safely tucked in a hotel in TAORMINA, however, this
fascinating island is not for the faint of heart or those looking
for a tranquil vacation.  In order to see all that there is to see
(and there is a lot!), you must be prepared for the traffic and
trash that is part of every Sicilian city.  About ninety percent
of the population lives in the urban centers, and once you
leave the cities, you are struck by the lack of people and
cars.  As you drive from the desert-like southern coast to the
mountainous interior to the lush north coast to majestic MT.
ETNA, you become aware of the diverse geography of the
island.
   I offer here some opinions and ideas on places in
SICILY not to miss, as well as places to avoid.  Some of my
ideas might be heretical to an Italian, but I believe that it is
possible to see the island's main attractions without exhausting
your spirit.  It is a wonderful, fascinating place!

WHEN TO GO:  Not in July or August when the Italians and
northern Europeans flock to the coasts and islands!  The
spring and fall are the best times to visit SICILY.  The
weather during my recent trip in June was perfect; however,
there was a heat wave at the end of May with temperatures
over 100 degrees.  Be prepared for anything!

HOW TO ARRIVE:  The easiest way to get to SICILY is by
air.  The two international airports are PUNTA RAISI outside
of PALERMO, and FONTANAROSSA, just south of
CATANIA.  Of the two airports, the latter is larger, more
modern, and easier to access.  From either airport it is easy
to pick up a rental car.

DRIVING IN SICILY:  Driving in Sicilian cities is an exercise
in courage and patience!  Frankly, I would recommend
staying out of the cities as much as possible.  The system of
autostrade that crisscross the island are excellent, and once
you leave the outskirts of the main towns and cities, you will
encounter very little traffic.

WHERE TO STAY:  Assuming that your adventurous spirit
has brought you to SICILY in the first place, the best way to
see the island is to rent at least two properties.  That way,
you can avoid the congestion of the cities, while enjoying the
beauty of the countryside or coastline.  On my recent trip to
SICILY, I rented one villa on the south coast, midway
between SYRACUSE and AGRIGENTO. It was a wonderful
location for day trips to the many archeological sites in the
area.  For the second week, I rented a villa just outside of
CEFALU, on the north coast.  These two locations allowed
me to see most of the island.

ONE APPROACH TO THE ISLAND:  I realize that there are
many wonderful things to see in PALERMO and CATANIA,
and other cities on the island.  However, it is much more
pleasant to concentrate on the sites that do not require a trip
into the urban centers.  Is this blasphemy?

WHAT TO SEE FROM A SOUTHERN BASE:  It is possible
to visit the spectacular Valle dei Templi without driving into
modern AGRIGENTO.  The temples are not to be missed.
It is also possible to see the old town of ORTYGIA, the citta
vecchia (old city) of SYRACUSE without driving through the
modern city.  Unfortunately, to reach the archeological zone
it is necessary to drive through a portion of the modern city,
but it is manageable.  The Graeco-Roman and Palaeo-Christian
ruins are fascinating.  The Baroque city of NOTO
is near SYRACUSE, and it is worth a stop.  Another nice
town in the same area is RAGUSA IBLA, the old town of
RAGUSA. You won't find many tourists in these two towns,
but you will find charm and always good food!

■  Further afield from AGRIGENTO are two other arch-
eological sites with exceptional Greek ruins, SELINUNTE
and SEGESTA.  Also, just north of GELA (truly an ugly city,
but with an important archeological museum) is PIAZZA
AMERINA, where the Villa Romana del Casale is located
about 4 Km south-west of town.  The villa itself, as well as
the spectacular mosaic floors will delight man, woman, and
child.  A very interesting and worthwhile side trip about
twenty minutes from the Villa Romana are the Scavi di Mor-
gantina (excavations of MORGANTINA), once a pre-Helle-
nistic city, which was destroyed by the Romans.  You won't
find many tourists in this lovely spot, and there are lots of
ruins to explore.

TO SEE FROM A NORTHERN BASE:  The charming
fishing village/resort of CEFALU is a pleasant base for
exploring a different part of SICILY.  CEFALU is still a
Sicilian town, contrasted with TAORMINA, which is solely a
tourist resort.  From here it is possible to take side trips to
ENNA, MT. ETNA, TAORMINA, MONREALE, and even
PALERMO (if you are so inclined).
   I don't mean to sound negative about TAORMINA,
because it is a beautiful place, filled with luxury hotels,
tastefully tucked away along picturesque winding streets or
jutting out over the sea.  The shops are filled with the
ceramics of SICILY, and bougainvillea cascades down the
steep hillsides.  Its Greek Theatre has a spectacular setting
above the town overlooking the sea.  The passeggiata,
where everyone in town fills the streets in the early evening
to walk, talk, and be seen is a real occasion in TAORMINA.
However, everyone in town is a tourist or connected with
tourism, including the Italians.  I personally prefer CEFALU
as a base, because it is more Sicilian, less expensive, and
more adventursome.

GUIDEBOOK:  I strongly recommend taking with you a
guidebook exclusivly on the subject of SICILY, such as
FROMMER'S TOURING GUIDE:  SICILY.  There is too
much to see on the island to rely on a general guidebook on
Italy for information.
                           X.  ROME NOTES

SECRET WALKS:  Walking tours of Rome, conducted in
English, have been organized by a group of English and
American scholars and artists who live in Rome.  Some of
the tours offered are titled:

     In the Footsteps of Caesar
     The Fall of the Roman Empire
     The Eternal Duel
     A Day in the Life of the Pope
     Harmony of All Contradictions
     Evening Stroll
     The Oldest Wine Bars
     Bike and Scooter Excursions
     Catacombs by Moped
     Walks for Connoisseurs

They also schedule tours for the physically disabled.  To
contact the organization for information and reservations:

                            Secret Walks
                     Viale Medaglie d'Oro, 127
                         00136 Roma, Italy
                     Tel:  [phone]
                     Fax:  [phone]
                 Monday to Friday 9:00 AM - 1:00 PM
                   E-mail:  [e-mail]
                           APPENDIX A:
                 STORIES FROM FIRST-TIME RENTERS

   Our experience with renting homes in Italy began in
1986, with a glorious month-long trip, which was divided
into three parts.  We were two families, eleven in number,
including five young teens and one set of grandparents.  It
was the perfect vacation!
   Our first week was spent in a charming little cottage in
Fiesole.  It was located on the grounds of a large and
elegant estate, situated atop one of the hills overlooking the
city of Florence.  We were well-positioned for daily bus trips
down the hill into the city.  Ah, Florence!   where we were
enlightened and enchanted and rained upon and robbed by
gypsies (which we endured none the worse for wear, and
which provided us with great stories to tell back home!).
   Then on to Umbria!  We rented a large van and a small
car, giving us much flexibility for our comings and goings.
Villa Tramonto was a noble old farmhouse on a rise of land
thirteen kilometers south of Perugia.  It was surrounded by
rolling wheat fields that met the horizon, and fields of
sunflowers in full bloom.  There was the main house, a
guest house, a pool, and tranquility.
   Every other day we took day trips into the quaint nearby
hill towns, luxuriating, resting, reading, absorbing, swimming,
and ping-ponging in between.  On these rest days we
would visit the local green grocer and feast in the comfort of
our own villa.  It seemed the perfect combination of sight-
seeing and relaxing.
   We had ring-side seats for the incomparable sights and
sounds of the Palio in Siena   we bought pottery in Orvieto
  we took in a concert at the Festivale dei Due Mondi in
Spoleto   the towers of San Gimignano beckoned   and
Assisi and Perugia.
   For the final week we traveled south to Maratea, taking
a side trip to the Greek ruins at Paestum en route.  Our
house faced the busy little port, and from the terrace we
watched the fishing boats and yachts go in and out, and the
vegetable and fish vendors selling their goods.  The days
spent on the secluded beaches reached by row boat were
a peaceful ending to a trip none of us will forget.
   Almost eight years later, four of us (two couples)
returned to Italy to rent another house.  We had a lovely
farmhouse in the Chianti region, midway between Florence
and Siena.  The farmhouse, recently restored with taste and
style, had breathtaking views of vineyard-laden hills.  One
afternoon we spent an hour or so trying to capture the gol-
den glow on camera as the sun set.
   Whereas our 1986 visit to Italy had been during the
summer, our recent stay was during the fall, when the
leaves had turned red and gold and the nights were chilly.
Every evening we read and listened to music in front of the
huge fireplace in the living room.  During the day we carried
umbrellas and raincoats as we toured the nearby hill towns.
Often, on the way home from a day of sightseeing, we
stopped at the little pizzeria a kilometer from our house for
a pizza with porcini mushrooms.  Or we fixed a simple pasta
with fresh tomatoes and mozarella in our own kitchen.  It
was a very cozy week.
   Renting the houses has been inexpensive and has
provided many opportunities for meeting people on a more
personal level.  Rather than moving from one hotel to
another, packing and unpacking, our days were unhurried
and companionable, and our memories varied and vivid.
What a wonderful way to come to know a country!
   Some useful items to take with you when renting a
house in a foreign country:  a small radio/tape player and a
few tapes; a string bag for trips to the green grocer; a small
container of Woolite for hand washing; a few tea bags.  But
most of all, you should bring an open mind and an ad-
venturous spirit!

Sig and Cheryl   rented three houses in 1986 and one in
late 1993



   We promised you a letter about our stay in Villa Evelina
near Florence.  All five of us had a wonderful time and
would recommend it highly.  The villa is on a hill between
Florence and Fiesole, with a spectacular view of both.  By
car it is a ten minute drive into Florence.  But you can also
take the #7 city bus directly into the heart of the city.  The
bus stop is about one block away from the house.
   One accesses the property through a gate on the
walled roadway leading from Florence to Fiesole into a
garden with many old trees and fruit trees, extensive rose
and herb gardens lovingly cared for by the owner, who lives
in part of the house.  The villa is a beautifully maintained
eighteenth century country home with views of Florence
from the garden and the upstairs windows.  It was featured
in the Italian and French House and Garden magazine.
   We enjoyed comfortable furnishings and tasteful
decorating, very much in keeping with the style of the
house.  The spotless kitchen had new appliances, including
a dishwasher, and a large refrigerator with a freezer.  Our
beds were very comfortable and there was sufficient
wardrobe space for our clothes and clutter.  We used the
formal dining room for three dinners, one a delicious lasa-
gna and tiramisú prepared by the maid, to which we invited
our delightful hostess and owner of the property.
     The owner was pleased to recommend trips and
restaurants with directions for finding them.  She speaks
excellent English and made us feel very much at home.
She even arranged to have the Herald Tribune delivered
early each morning!
   Villa Evelina exceeded our expectations in every
respect.  It was a beautiful experience that we hope many
other travelers to Florence will enjoy.

Charles and Margaret   rented in the spring of 1994



   We loved our villa near Rome!  What a wonderful place!
The setting was just perfect:  vast house, huge grounds,
lovely pool, and only thirty minutes by subway from the
heart of Rome.  Our traveling companions have decided
that this was a once-in-a-lifetime event; this was their first
villa experience, and they couldn't believe it.
   The villa is located in a very peaceful setting, and we
enjoyed returning there in the afternoon after a day in Rome
or the countryside to take a refreshing swim in the pool.  We
felt very privileged.
   We enjoyed the countryside, Grottaferrata, Frascati,
and the other Castelli Romani.  There was so much to see
and do that we all wished we were able to stay longer.

Henry and Diane   rented in the late spring of 1994


   Renting an apartment on the island of Vulcano was an
experience of a lifetime for all of us.  The tourist complex,
where the villa is located, is a beautiful secluded club high
on a mountain overlooking the sea.  The staff is very
gracious and accommodating; they even loaned us a car
during our stay, because the shuttle was not yet operating.
There is also a magnificent pool available.
   The villa was clean, well-appointed, and very comfort-
able.  The best part was the large balcony, where we ate
every meal.  The property was private and spacious with
beautiful grounds.
   The village is a wonderful spot, too, with many markets,
produce stands, and a great cafe called Remigio.  It is only
a twenty minute boat ride to Lipari, where there is a magnificent
museum and many shops and restaurants.
   Overall, it is a wonderful holiday spot, where one can
find peace and tranquility among the awesome natural
beauty of the usual pandemonium of the Italian social
scene.  Wonderful!

Catherine   rented in the late spring of 1994



   We thoroughly enjoyed the property "Corallo"!  The
description in the brochure said that the house was 30
meters to the beach.  Perhaps it is 30 meters to walk to the
stairs to go down to the beach, but actually, it is just high
enough off the beach not to have sand blowing onto the
enormous terrace.  It was just beautiful!  The furnishings are
adequate - rattan and plastic - whereas the building itself is
spectacular - tall marble columns, marble floors, and right
on the beach.
   The second property we rented was on the shore of
Lake Massaciuccoli.  It was a wonderful place!  The villa is
in the old world Italian style, with antique furnishings and a
beautiful kind of refinement.  It has a lovely view of the lake.
The owners, Mr. and Mrs. Orlando, couldn't have been
nicer or more gracious in thinking of our comfort.  Their
housekeeper even did some ironing and washing for us.
Mr. Orlando is a flautist and travels internationally, and both
he and his wife speak English.  A real bonus was that the
Puccini Festival was going on very nearby, and we were
able to see three operas!

Sally & Paul   rented in August of 1995



                           APPENDIX B:
                      EASY MENUS TO PREPARE

     Following are some simple menu suggestions to get you
started.  It has always been my practice to fix breakfasts and
dinners at home and to eat in a ristorante or trattoria during
the long lunch break in which ever town I happen to be.  It's
a nice way to get to know the town's flavor, so to speak!  A
useful book to have is Eating in Italy, by Faith Willinger, an
American living in Florence.  The book includes advice on
where and when to shop, various regional food specialties,
and other helpful hints (can be ordered from BOOK PASSAGE
by phone:  [phone]).

   ■ Tortellini in brodo con petti di pollo (Broth with tor-
     tellini and chicken breasts); insalata mista (mixed
     salad); Tuscan bread; Parmigiano cheese.

   ■ Salade Nicoise alla Italiana (traditional Nicoise
     salad, with an Italian twist:  olives, green beans,
     potatoes, tuna, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs,
     cucumbers, capers, etc   with a dressing of
     balsamic vinegar and olive oil); Tuscan bread.

   ■ Pasta with fresh tomato sauce and basil (either
     home-made or from a jar of salsa di pomodoro con
     basilico   BARILLA brand); insalata mista;
     Parmigiano cheese; Tuscan bread.  I recommend
     the delicious fresh pastas available in most markets.

   ■ Pasta with porcini mushrooms and garlic (sometimes
     you can find porcini fresh; otherwise, use
     dried, or a BARILLA sauce with porcini); insalata
     mista; Parmigiano cheese; Tuscan bread.

   ■ Pasta with pesto (you can always find a jar of pre-made
     pesto in the grocery stores); marinated veg-
     etable salad with balsamic dressing (zucchini, car-
     rots, cucumbers, tomatoes, fennel bulb); Tuscan
     bread.

   ■ Pasta with sun-dried tomatoes in oil (easy to find in
     markets), olives, tuna, artichoke hearts, sliced
     roasted eggplant, etc. (all can be found in the deli
     section of the grocery store); insalata verde (green
     salad); Tuscan bread.

   ■ Antipasti platter (salami, mortadella, and other
     lunch meats; selection of marinated artichoke
     hearts, roasted red peppers and eggplant, sun-dried
     tomatoes in oil, mushrooms, cheeses);
     Tuscan bread.

   ■ Zuppa di verdura (vegetables in broth); Parmigiano
     cheese; insalata mista; Tuscan bread.

   ■ Minestrone (soup with vegetables, beans, and
     pasta   very hearty); Parmigiano cheese; insalata
     verde; Tuscan bread.

   ■ White bean salad with tuna, vegetables (toma-
     toes, cucumbers, roasted peppers, onions),
     and a balsamic/olive oil dressing; bread.

   ■ Pasta primavera (pasta with lightly sauteed
     vegetables and garlic); insalata verde; bread.
     Another tasty cold variation is to add the vegetables to
     leftover pasta with pesto.  A splash of
     balsamic vinegar adds zip.

   ■ Pasta Capri (pasta with fresh tomatoes, fresh
          mozzarella, garlic, and basil).
                           APPENDIX C:
                      A SAMPLE SHOPPING LIST

     Based upon the previous menu suggestions made a-
bove, I've prepared a sample shopping list.  Also included
are some basic items that you will need during your rental
stay.

Bottled water (con gas or naturale)
Milk (look for boxed milk)
Vinegar (balsamic or wine)
Olive oil
Salt, pepper, & spices
Tea / Coffee
Knorr Brodo (broth cubes)
Pasta (include tortellini & fresh)

Bottled sauces (BARILLA brand is good)

Vegetables:  potatoes, onions,
green beans, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, lettuce, etc.

Deli items: parmigiano cheese, olives,
artichokes,  roasted peppers and eggplant, lunch
meats, fresh mozzarella, etc.
Canned fagioli (beans)
Canned tomatoes
Canned tuna
Capers
Dried, canned, or fresh porcini
Garlic
Fresh basil
Wine
Cold cereal
Yogurt (for breakfast)
Eggs
Fruit
Jam
Butter (if desired)
Chicken breasts

Dish soap
Bar soap
Toilet paper
Paper towels
Cleanser
BREAD   BE SURE TO BUY IT FRESH EVERY MORNING!

                            APPENDIX D:
                    NOTES ON ITALIAN REAL ESTATE

   Following is a simplified explanation of Italian real estate
procedures gathered from several sources.  For the most
complete information I recommend the book Living in Italy,
The Essential Guide for Property Purchasers and Residents,
by Yve Menzies, published by Robert Hale Limited,
London.  And by all means, consult your attorney and
accountant before engaging in any property purchase
transaction!

Procedures and Contracts:
■  Before entering into a preliminary sale agreement the
   buyer must open a foreign currency account into which
   funds may be deposited only from outside of Italy.

■   A Compromesso (preliminary sale agreement), which
   states the full sale price and the payment arrangements,
   is signed by the buyer and the seller.  The buyer
   makes a down payment of 30% of the purchase price
   of the property.

■   A Notaio (notary public) is engaged to draw up the
   Rogito (final sale contract).  First he checks to make
   sure that the property is free from liens and encumbrances.
   Once the Rogito is signed the buyer consigns
   to the seller the balance of the payment.  Except in
   particular cases, the Rogito usually records only 50% to
   60% of the selling price, in order to minimize the taxes
   that the seller and buyer have to pay.  The notary's fees
   (2% to 2 ½%) are based upon this amount, rather than
   on the full sale price.

Initial Costs, Land Registry, and Notary Fees:
■  Initial costs and land registry costs are calculated on the
   amount listed on the Rogito.  Apart from particular
   cases, urban properties are taxed at 10%; country
   houses with land are taxed at 10% on the declared
   value of the building and 17% on the declared value of
   the land.

■  The notary fees are about 2.5% of the amount shown
   on the Rogito.

Arranging a Mortgage:
■  The usual mortgage obtainable through an Italian bank
   is up to 50% of the bank's appraisal of the property, at
   a rate of about 17% for a ten-year loan in Italian Lira.
   The mortgage is registered at the Ufficio del Registro
   (Mortgage Register), and for this you must pay a fee of
   about 15%.

■  It is also possible (and probably less expensive in the
   long run) to arrange for a loan from an American bank
   to be transferred to an Italian bank (for a fee, of
   course).  You must get a certificate from the Italian
   bank which states that the funds have been brought in
   from abroad.

■  Loan payments are made twice a year,

Taxes:
■  The best advice I've gathered is to find a commercialista
   (a combination of accountant and lawyer) in Italy who
   specializes in international work.  He or she will tell you
   what taxes you must pay and will be able to advise you
      in all aspects of taxes.

********************************************************************************
This is an ASCII version of the booklet that Suzanne provides all of her clients.  The information
is an accumulation of her personal notes made during her many trips (she goes at least once
 each year) during which she stays in various properties and visits the local area.  She has also
included a few pointers suggested by her many satisfied rental clients.

This booklet is available for $7.50 in a handy pocket-size format by contacting her directly:
          RENTALS IN ITALY (& Elsewhere!)
          Suzanne T. Pidduck
          1742 Calle Corva
          Camarillo, CA 93010

          Voice [phone]
          FAX [phone]
          CIS 76413,713

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END